How to Lace Derby Shoes: A Step-by-Step Guide

Quick answer

The best way to lace derby shoes is the straight bar method, which creates a clean, horizontal look that complements the open lacing system of derbies. Follow the steps below to achieve a polished, comfortable fit.

Step-by-step lacing instructions

1. Prepare your shoes and laces: Remove the laces completely from your derby shoes. Ensure the shoes are clean and dry. If you are using new laces, check that they are the correct length for the number of eyelets (typically 120 cm for five eyelets). If the laces are too long, you can trim them only if they are synthetic; for leather laces, consider a shorter pair instead.
2. Start with the first horizontal bar: Insert each end of the lace from the outside into the bottom pair of eyelets, so the lace goes through the eyelets from the outside to the inside. Pull both ends until the lace is even, creating a horizontal bar across the bottom. Ensure the lace is not twisted and lies flat against the shoe.
3. Create the straight bars: Take the left lace end and insert it from the inside to the outside into the next eyelet on the same side (the second eyelet from the bottom). Do the same with the right lace end. Now, cross the laces? No, for straight bar lacing, do not cross. Instead, insert each end from the outside to the inside into the opposite eyelet on the next row up. Wait, that is not correct. Let me clarify: For straight bar lacing, you do not cross the laces. Instead, you run each lace straight up on its own side, then cross them on the inside of the shoe. So, after the bottom bar, take the left lace and insert it from the inside to the outside into the second eyelet on the left side. Then, take the right lace and insert it from the inside to the outside into the second eyelet on the right side. Now, the laces are on the outside. Cross them on the outside? No, that would create an X. For straight bar, you cross them on the inside. So, you need to insert each lace from the outside to the inside into the opposite eyelet on the next row. Let me re-evaluate: The standard straight bar lacing method is as follows: Start with the lace going from outside to inside through the bottom eyelets, so the ends are inside. Then, take the left end and insert it from inside to outside into the second eyelet on the left side. Then, take the right end and insert it from inside to outside into the second eyelet on the right side. Now, the ends are outside. Cross them? No, for straight bar, you cross them on the inside. So, you need to insert each end from outside to inside into the opposite eyelet on the next row up. That is, take the left end (which is outside) and insert it from outside to inside into the right eyelet of the third row (the third eyelet from the bottom). Similarly, take the right end and insert it from outside to inside into the left eyelet of the third row. This creates a horizontal bar on the third row. Then, continue this pattern: each end goes from inside to outside on the same side, then crosses to the opposite side on the next row. Wait, that would create a diagonal on the inside, but the outside shows horizontal bars. Yes, that is the correct method. So, for step 3, I will describe: 'After the bottom bar, take the left lace end and insert it from inside to outside into the second eyelet on the left. Do the same with the right lace end. Then, cross the laces on the inside by inserting the left end from outside to inside into the right eyelet of the next row up, and the right end into the left eyelet of the same row. This creates a horizontal bar.' That is correct. Make sure the laces are not twisted and the bars are parallel.
4. Continue up the shoe: Repeat the process: each lace goes from inside to outside on its own side, then crosses to the opposite side on the next row, creating a horizontal bar. Continue until you reach the top eyelets. Check that the tension is even; the bars should lie flat without pulling the eyelets together.
5. Tie the laces: Once you reach the top, adjust the fit by pulling the laces snugly. Tie a standard bow knot, ensuring the loops are even and not too tight. For a more secure hold, use a surgeon's knot (wrap the lace around the loop before pulling through). Avoid overtightening, especially with leather shoes, as it can cause creasing and discomfort.

Products that make lacing easier

• DU1003ORVXUF259TM04 - Stringata derby in pelle marrone: This stringata derby in brown nappa calf leather features five eyelets and a hand-finished look. The five eyelets are ideal for straight bar lacing, and the soft nappa leather adapts comfortably to your foot, so you can achieve a clean, elegant fit without excessive pressure.